Ribs by Cathy McAlister

Quest for the Best Ribs Ends North


In all honesty, I love ribs. In fact, my love affair with ribs began a few years ago when I was traveling on business in the northern panhandle of the state. Prior to that day, I had never tasted pork baby back ribs – I was a complete rib virgin. However, that all changed the day I stumbled into a little roadside rib joint in Weirton, WV called DJ’s Ribs. This little place located at 380 Three Springs Drive is a local favorite. The place looked and smelled like it had something wonderful waiting on the other side of the door, and it did. Sparks flew, and my taste buds exploded when I took my first bite of baby back ribs. I had never tasted anything so delicious, moist and tender. I was hooked, but Weirton is a four hour drive from Charleston, so it was then I began my search or quest as it turns out to find a worthy equivalent closer to home. So, you are invited to follow me on my journey to find the best ribs in the Kanawha Valley.

Before we get started, there are a few things you first must understand about ribs. When I speak of ribs, I am talking about pork ribs, though in some areas beef ribs are in favor. I will stick with pork ribs for this occasion. There are three basic types of ribs. First, there are spare ribs. Spare ribs come from the underbelly and side of the pig. Next, there are baby back ribs, my personal favorite, which are cut from the side/belly and will usually have the brisket bone attached. Another good rib type is the loin back rib. This particular cut takes less time to cook and is generally the most expensive type of rib. Lastly, many people like a St. Louis style sparerib as well as a country style sparerib. These types of ribs are cut from the pork shoulder and can be quite delicious, but my love has always been and will continue to be good ole’ baby back ribs.

There are a number of ways to prepare good ribs. Slow smoking is the preferred method, and rubbing the ribs with spices and sauces can also add to their appeal. Ribs are amenable to all kinds of seasoning. Here are a few of the more popular styles:

Texas Style: Rub with lots of black pepper and finish with jalapeno flavor sauce.
Memphis Style: Rub containing garlic and onion powder, white pepper, seasoned pepper, chili powder, cumin, brown sugar and paprika. (Could be hot with all the peppers.) Mop with apple cider.
Southern Comfort Style: Rub contains paprika, garlic powder, seasoned salt, dry mustard, oregano and chili powder. Finishing sauce, mild with molasses and bourbon.

Next there are a variety of different barbecue sauces. They come in many flavors, styles and types. Most everyone is familiar with the thick, sweet sauces that line the shelves of grocery stores. However there is so much more to barbecue sauce than that. From thin, vinegar sauces to thick, tomato sauces to mustard based sauces there is something for everyone. It also depends in what area of the country you live in. Southerners tend to prefer the traditional, vinegar based sauce, while Texans like a thicker tomato based sauce. I feel it is important to understand and experiment with the many different types of ribs and the various rubs and sauces that jazz them up. So, if you are now ready, let’s find the best ribs the valley has to offer. Off we go!

It is truly a shame that Joey’s, a local rib joint, has gone out of business. Joey’s who used to be located next to the Charleston Civic Center in downtown Charleston, offered thick, loin cut ribs cooked to perfection. While they were loin back and not my favorite baby back ribs, Joey’s came in at a close second. However, since they are no longer in the running, we must keep searching.

Ruby Tuesday’s located in Barboursville, WV has a pretty good offering. Their baby back ribs prove to be tender, sweet and moist. However, I learned the hard way that they are not always spot on, so let’s move on.

Famous Dave’s, located in both Charleston and Barboursville is certainly in the running. With a name like “Famous Dave’s” one is lead to believe the place is famous for their ribs and quality, right? While they were okay, neither their St. Louis style nor their baby back ribs hit my sweet spot. Let’s keep moving. My elusive dream continues.

Several local restaurants such as: Chili’s, the Long Horn, and the Fifth Quarter dish up baby back ribs that are not bad and all of them are similar in taste and texture. While Jen’s BBQ located directly across campus offers tasty vinegar based baby back ribs, they still don’t stack up to DJ’s - the ribs that seemingly cannot be matched anywhere else. I’m about to give up, I’m kicking rocks.

I had heard rumors, even elaborate stories about a rib shack up interstate I79 just off the Clendenin exit called Almost Heaven BBQ. I heard this place served ribs that are smoked to absolute perfection. I heard the pit master was a local boy who had learned the technique while working in Texas. I heard a voice in my head say head north. So, I decided to check this place out. Located at 134 Spencer Road about 2 miles off the interstate, I found a small “hole in the wall” that I could have been missed had I blinked my eyes. But, there is was – a small little gray building sitting on top of a gravel parking lot that was packed with cars. A large pink pig windsock blew in the wind. It was crowded. I was forced to drive past, turn around and make a second attempt at a landing. Once I pulled onto the parking lot, and made my way to the tiny porch, I was greeted and welcomed by total strangers, all waiting on their own rib delight. So, I boldly walked up to the small window to place my order. The aroma hit me square in the face, causing nose to twitch and my mouth to water. My heart was pounding with anticipation. A peek inside that tiny window revealed the cleanest work space I think I had ever seen. I patiently waited on my order – making small talk with strangers and old acquaintances. Behind the building I could see the smoke rise from the huge smokers that were slowing cooking those mouth watering baby back and St. Louis style ribs. It was at that exact moment, a rainbow appeared. The glare from my newly found pot of gold blinded me. I remember thinking to myself - could it be I had finally found my “Holy Grail”? The aroma was driving me crazy, the anticipation made my knees quiver. I could not wait one minute longer. I tore into those baby back ribs like I had never tasted them before. It was then that I knew my long search was over.

A full rack of baby back ribs at Almost Heaven BBQ will cost you $17.00. They are large, so be prepared for a challenge. The side dishes are all homemade and are equally as good. Almost Heaven BBQ offers only take-out, as there is no indoor seating, just outdoor picnic tables. Almost Heaven BBQ lives up to their name. However, they are only open Thursday, Friday and Saturday’s. Additionally, they sell out quickly, so get there early. Oh – one final tip….call ahead and ask them to save you a rack. See you on the porch, I’ll be waiting beside the pink pig!