My Quest for the Holy (Rib) Grail
My love affair with ribs began a few years ago when I was traveling on business in the northern panhandle of our state. Prior to that time, I was a complete rib virgin.
That changed the day I stumbled upon a little roadside rib joint in Weirton called DJ's Ribs. Located at 380 Three Springs Drive, DJ's is a local favorite.
The place looked and smelled like something wonderful waited on the other side of the door—and I was right. My taste buds exploded when I took my first bite of baby back ribs. I never tasted anything so delicious; so moist and tender.
I was hooked; but Weirton is a four hour drive from Charleston, so I began a quest to find a worthy equivalent closer to home. You are invited to follow me on my journey to find the best ribs in the Kanawha Valley.
Before we get started, there are a few things you must understand about ribs. When I speak of ribs, I'm typically referring to pork ribs, though beef ribs are in favor in some areas of WV. I'll stick with pork ribs for the time being.
There are three basic types of ribs. First there are spare ribs, which come from the underbelly and side of a pig. Next there are baby back ribs—my personal favorite—which are cut from the side of a pig's belly and will usually have a brisket bone attached.
Another good one is the loin back rib. This cut takes less time to cook and is generally the most expensive of the lot. Lastly, many people like a St. Louis-style spare rib, as well as a country-style spare rib. The latter are cut from pork shoulder and are delicious.
There are myriad ways to prepare good ribs. Slow smoking is the preferred method, and rubbing the ribs with spices and/or sauces is also popular.
Ribs are amenable to all kinds of seasoning. Here are a few of the more popular styles:
Texas Style: A rub with lots of black pepper and a jalapeno-flavored sauce.
Memphis Style: A rub containing garlic, onion powder, white pepper, seasoned pepper, chili powder, cumin, brown sugar, and paprika. Also mopped with an apple cider glaze.
Southern Comfort Style: A rub with paprika, garlic powder, seasoned salt, dry mustard, oregano, and chili powder, finished with a mild sauce made with molasses and bourbon.
There are also many varieties of barbecue sauces. Most folks are familiar with the thick and sweet sauces that line the shelves of grocery stores. There is however much more to barbecue sauce than that.
From thin vinegar-based sauces, to thick tomato-based ones, and even mustard-based sauces, there is something for everyone. Sauce variety depends largely on which area of the country you live in.
For instance, Southerners tend to prefer vinegar-based sauces, but Texans prefer a thicker tomato-based sauce. I feel it is important for a rib lover to understand and experiment with the many types of ribs, sauces, and rubs.
Are you ready now? Let's find the best ribs the valley has to offer.
It is truly a shame that Joey's, a local rib joint, went out of business. Joey's, which used to be located next to the Charleston Civic Center in downtown Charleston, offered thick loin cuts cooked to perfection.
While Joey's served loin back cuts—and not my favorite, baby back ribs—it came in at a close second in my top ten favorite rib joints. Being that Joey's is no longer in the running, we must keep searching.
Ruby Tuesday's, located in Barboursville, has a pretty good offering. Their baby back ribs are tender, sweet, and moist. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that Ruby Tuesday's ribs are not always spot-on, so let's move on.
Famous Dave's, located in Charleston and Barboursville, is certainly in the running. With a name like "Famous Dave's," one is lead to believe the place is famous for their quality ribs. While they are OK, neither their St. Louis-style nor their baby back ribs hit my sweet spot.
My elusive dream continues.
Several local restaurants, including Chili's, Long Horn, and Fifth Quarter, dish up baby back ribs that aren't half bad, and all of them are similar in taste and texture.
Jen's BBQ, located directly across from West Virginia State University's campus, offers tasty vinegar-based baby back ribs, but they don't stack up to DJ's ribs—ribs that seemingly cannot be matched anywhere.
I'm about to give up. I'm kicking rocks.
I heard elaborate rumors about a rib shack up Interstate I79, just off the Clendenin exit, called Almost Heaven BBQ. Supposedly, this place serves ribs that are smoked to absolute perfection. I even heard that the pit master is a local boy who learned the technique while working in Texas.
A voice in my head said "head north," so I decided to check this place out. Located at 134 Spencer Road, about 2 miles off the interstate, is a small hole-in-the-wall I might have missed had I blinked. But there it was: a small gray building, sitting on top of a gravel lot packed with cars.
A large pink pig-shaped windsock blew in the wind. The joint was crowded, forcing me to drive past and turn around.
Once I pulled into the parking lot and made my way onto the tiny porch, I was greeted by strangers waiting on their own rib delight. I boldly walked up to the small window and placed my order.
An aroma hit me square in the face, causing my nose to twitch and my mouth to water. My heart pounded with anticipation.
A peek inside that tiny window revealed the cleanest work space I had ever seen. I patiently waited on my order, making small talk with strangers and even a few old acquaintances.
I could see smoke rise from huge smokers located behind the building, in which mouth-watering St. Louis-style ribs were slowly cooking. It was at that exact moment that a rainbow appeared.
I thought to myself, Could it be that I finally found my Holy Grail? The aroma was driving me crazy, and the anticipation made my knees quiver.
I could not wait one minute longer. When I tore into those baby back ribs, I knew my long search was over.
A full rack of baby back ribs at Almost Heaven BBQ will cost you $17. They are large, so be prepared for a challenge. The side dishes are all homemade and are equally delicious.
Almost Heaven only offers take-out, as there is no indoor seating available, although there are outdoor picnic tables.
Almost Heaven BBQ lives up to its name. Unfortunately, they are only open on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. They also sell out quickly, so get there early.
One last tip: call ahead and ask them to save you a rack. Maybe I'll see you on the porch sometime. I'll be waiting beside the pink pig.
Monday, May 3, 2010
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